The webseries travels through Salvador showing experiences through the eyes of the people of Salvador
Cidade Baixa (The Lower City)
Salvador by Soteropolitanos takes you around the city, showing small-great daily experiences. We toured several locations, such as Pelourinho, Barra, Itapuã, the Lower city, Rio Vermelho and the Suburbs, meeting people and their relationship with the city and, thus, discovering (or rediscovering) this beautiful Salvador.
What we want is to inspire you and make sure that, after watching, you take your mask and 70 ° alcohol gel and get to know your own city. If you are not from here, take this tour with the eyes of the people of Salvador. In this itinerary, we will go with you to the Lower city, CBX for the most intimate. We have gathered here all the important tips and information for conscious tourism.
” Cidade Baixa is the old city. The old city that holds all these places where religiosity is manifested in a very lively way, with dancing, singing, dressing up.”, Goli Guerreiro, Anthropologist
Here we go
The Basilica of Senhor do Bonfim
This is one of the points that the Bahian is most fond of. It is one of the most traditional Catholic churches in the city, dedicated to Senhor do Bonfim, considered the patron of the heart of Bahians and a symbol of religious syncretism in Bahia. Devotion to Senhor do Bonfim is of a Portuguese heritage, reinforced by the promises made by Dom João V, before the image of Senhor do Bonfim, pleading for the restoration of his father’s health, King Dom Pedro II.
“Colina Sagrada is a reference, in the city of Salvador, it expresses our faith, of the encounter with the different. Here we live an experience of interreligious dialogue”, Father Edson Menezes
The second floor of the The Basilica, holds a beautiful surprise. A museum, with an excellent disposition of artifacts, gathers paintings, priests’ clothing, furniture and a great diversity of gifts given by the faithful to their saint of devotion in gratitude, consecration or renewal of a promise.
To complete the tour, what do you think about climbing the tower and seeing everything from up there? A few years ago, access was cleared, giving sight of the Ribeira waterfront on one side and, on the other, all the neighborhoods of the Lower City, up to Avenida Contorno, and the buildings that are in the Corredor da Vitória. The large windows also give wide visibility to Largo do Bonfim, which is brand new, all beautiful and refurbished. Learn more about this story
Chef Lili Almeida – Casa Dona Lili
Lili Almeida is a Bahian chef-communicator who presents, through food and words, the incredible flavors of Bahia.
She worked alongside great chefs, in different kitchen roles, but it was as a student at the Museum of Bahian Gastronomy, at Senac, in Salvador, that she saw herself as a producer of culture. There, in addition to developing cooking techniques, she had access to books with information that she considers liberating. She created the AFRIKANABAHIA project where she uses acarajé as a starting point to tell stories about women and Afro-Brazilian culinary culture.
“For me, it’s wonderful that my restaurant is at my house and I can receive my friends and my new friends in these different times, right?”, Chef Lili Almeida
She is the chef of Casa Dona Lili, a restaurant that serves an authorial menu and also owns “Lili Almeida”, a company that today embraces the Aula-Tour project at the São Joaquim market where she teaches Afro-Brazilian culinary culture classes and inspires people through her story.
Chef and researcher
@ cheflilialmeida // firstname.lastname@example.org
Whatsapp 71 999 843 364 // Telephone 71 3487 7897
Some of the Lower City Churches
Basilica of Nossa Senhora da Conceição da Praia, Church of São Joaquim, Basilica Sanctuary of Nosso Senhor do Bonfim, Mother Church of Nossa Senhora da Penha, Church of Boa Viagem, among others.
“Cidade Baixa, towards Itapagipe peninsula, was a place mapped by the Catholic Church. It is all spotted with religious buildings.”, Goli Guerreiro, Anthropologist
Sister Dulce Memorial
Inaugurated in 1993, one year after the death of the Bahian nun, the Irmã Dulce Memorial (MID) is a permanent exhibition on the legacy of love and charity of the good angel of Bahia, bringing together more than 800 pieces that help to preserve and keep alive the religious ideals. The habit used by her, photographs, documents and personal objects can be seen on the MID, which still preserves, intact, Sister Dulce’s room, where we can see the chair in which she slept for almost 30 years due to a promise. Other important facts of her life are remembered through models, books, diplomas and medals.
The Sanctuary of the Blessed Dulce of the Poor, also known as the Church of the Immaculate Conception of the Mother of God, where the relics (term used to designate the body or part of the body of the beatified or saints) of the good angel of Bahia are deposited, in a space called Chapel of Relics. It is a circular room, with triple height, with the tomb in the center that holds the remains of the Mother of the Poor.
Penha Beach – Ribeira
The waters of Ribeira shore are so calm that residents and tourists often place their chairs and tables in the sea and stay there until the high tide. Located in the Lower City, this shallow sea with clear waters is part of the affective memories of people who have lived in Ribeira as a child and moved or remained in the neighborhood, even after the city started to grow “in a different direction”
Emerged as a fishing village, in the 1930s Ribeira was a disputed place for the summer of families in Bahia. The neighborhood has a marina where, until today, boats are moored – especially the sloops that are anchored in Enseada dos Tainheiros.
The most popular strip of sand is Penha beach, next to the architectural complex formed by the Archbishop’s Summer Palace and the Church of Nossa Senhora da Penha, with good options for beach shacks serving food and drinks with chair and parasol services.
There are those who only know the Ribeira district because it has the famous Ribeira Ice Cream Shop, founded in 1931, as the best-known point for tourists. We understand, after all, that there is no better evening program than a good ice cream, watching the sunset.
São Joaquim Market
In the Lower City, between All Saints Bay and Avenida Oscar Pontes, the São Joaquim market is large in length and history. The largest open market in the city is a dive into the soul of Salvador. Its corridors and stores form a great maze of gastronomic, sound and cultural experiences.
There, you will find herbs of the most varied types, fresh fruits, pots produced in the Recôncavo, animals, clay handicrafts, straw baskets and bags, religious articles, mouth-watering delicacies and colors to fill your eyes.
Located on a small waterfront, the restaurants in the revitalized part of the market are unmissable, not only for the breathtaking view of All Saints Bay, but also for the menu. Pôr do Sol da Diva, for example, has a bean stew as its flagship, but it also serves fish stews, mocotó, pititinga and other delicacies.
For over 60 years, the artist Prentice Carvalho has been painting Bahia. There are tiles, ceramics and canvases with the most diverse motives, such as typical landscapes of Bahia, Bahians with traditional clothing, orixás, local architecture, saints, everyday images and commissioned portraits.
“I just paint for a living, not to get rich. My wealth is in friendships and what I do. You who are calling me an artist … For me, I’m just a worker.”, Seu Prentice, Fine Arts Artist.
Inside the narrow townhouse on the edge of Ribeira, close to the Ice Cream Museum, in addition to buying souvenirs directly from those who produce them, the visitor is still sure of good prose. All the walls are taken by works by Prentice. Most are for sale, but some he cherishes as his personal collection. Even in the bathroom, the ceiling is all painted by him. There is also his studio, where you can see him paint some pieces and manipulate the oven.
Between one story and another about the Lower City, you will choose the next items that will decorate your home (or that of friends and family) full of Bahian poetry. Be sure to put your name in the guest book signed by people from all over the world.
R. Porto dos Tainheiros, 70 – Ribeira, Salvador – BA40421-580
Accepts orders all over Brazil via direct message (instagram) or whatsapp (71) 99917-0254.
To make the tour even more perfect, also travel through photos by photographer Tiago Quirino Troccoli on his instagram profile @soterografando. He is passionate about the Lower City, goes to all popular parties, such as Lavagem do Bonfim and the Festa dos Navegantes. The walk-through Tiago’s eyes are very worthwhile.
“Since I started photography in 2014, I missed this. I was already using social media and was looking for a picture of Cidade Baixa and couldn’t find it! My best photos were taken in Cidade Baixa.“, @soterografando, Photographer.
Ponta do Humaitá
The Ponta do Humaitá Lighthouse is the only one of the city’s three lighthouses located within the sea water, on the banks of Monte Serrat beach. When the tide rises, part of the lighthouse’s structure is submerged and the scenery becomes even more fascinating. It is at that moment that many people get together to take a dip in the sea, since there is also a boat dock.
It is also known as Farol dos Namorados, where couples in love sit on the balustrade, looking at the horizon, and there are also bridal and pregnancy photoshoots.
With the covid-19 pandemic, the capital of Bahia has been adapting to this new normal. During the tours, visitors should pay attention to the use of the mask, the use of 70º alcohol gel and keeping a safe distance from other people.
Call ahead for the places to be visited and find out about the security protocols to avoid contamination.
This is the Plan for the Resumption of Activities in Salvador. Understand all the working protocols in this link.
Salvador por Soteropolitanos. Cidade Baixa .