The Webseries travels through Salvador showing experiences through the eyes of the people of Salvador
Salvador by Soteropolitanos takes you through the city showing small-great daily experiences. We toured several locations, such as Pelourinho, Barra, Itapuã, Cidade Baixa, Rio Vermelho and the Suburbs, meeting people and their relationship with the city and, thus, discovering (or rediscovering) this beautiful Salvador.
What we want is to inspire you and make sure that, after watching, you take your mask and 70 ° alcohol gel and get to know your own city. If you are not from here, take this tour with the eyes of the people of Salvador. In this itinerary, we will take you to Rio Vermelho, the most bohemian neighborhood in Salvador. We have gathered here all the important tips and information for conscious tourism.
Here we go
Casa de Iemanjá
Iemanjá is a deity of African origin, the queen of the sea. Her name comes from an expression in Yoruba that means ‘mother whose children are fish’. She is a very respected and worshiped orixá and that is why an important celebration is held in her honor (February 2nd). She is described as a beautiful mermaid with long hair and a blue dress. She is also called Janaína, Rainha do Mar and Odò Ìyá (Mother of the river). She is considered the protector of fishermen, rafts and men who earn a living at sea.
It is at Casa de Iemanjá, one of the great symbols of the neighborhood of Rio Vermelho, where the gifts for the orixá are deposited during the Festa de Iemanjá celebration. The house is open all year for tourist visits. The small temple, which houses the image of the protective orixá of fishermen, occupies part of the area where there is a fishing colony. In addition to leaving flowers for Iemanjá, you can buy fresh fish, observe the horizon, stroll around and, who knows, even take a dip in the sea or also take the opportunity to watch the sunset.
Casa de Iemanjá
Rua Guedes Cabral – Rio Vermelho, Salvador – BA, 41950-620
The neighborhood Beaches
Buracão is the beach where mainly the locals enjoy. The strip of sand is not extensive, the sea is not calm, but the atmosphere of the regulars is the differential: it seems that everyone knows each other! It has a wall full of graffiti and mosaics on mirrors. Even the access staircase was designed. Don’t forget to rent a beach umbrella and let the afternoon pass by while looking out at the sea.
For those looking for the tranquility of the natural pools that form in the rocks, the best option in the neighborhood is Praia da Paciência. This is the charming, small beach that only the locals used to visit (but it seems that little by little it’s being discovered by everyone).
It is close to everything in the neighborhood and has some pretty cool rock formations on the right. There’s a beach hut service, beach umbrellas and the beer is always cold. If you’re not feeling the beach, it is worth going to the Mirante do Rio Vermelho. You have a complete view of the beach, Casa de Iemanjá and you can sit on the stools and relax. There is also a great bike path there. There is no shortage of options.
Many carnival goers know this path when they decide to walk back from the Barra-Ondina circuit to their hotels in Rio Vermelho. Many stop there for a swim and continue their journey towards the deserved rest. The same happens during the festivities of the day of Iemanjá, February 2nd. As the celebration takes the coast, and everything happens during the day, there, people can take a dip to cool off. If you’re one of these people, the tip is to always stay alert and head down to the beach when there are people by the sand and / or policing nearby. The beach is hidden, below the level of the road.
Praia do Buracão – head by Rua Barro Vermelho – Rio Vermelho, Salvador – BA, 41940-340
Praia da Paciência – Rua da Paciência – Rio Vermelho, Salvador – BA, 41950-010
Blue Praia Bar
With the exuberant view of Praia do Buracão, Blue Praia Bar offers six inviting and cozy environments. There, you can choose between enjoying the Balinese beds, enjoying the tables with your feet in the sand, experiencing one of the huts with friends or enjoying the vibe at the tables near the sea.
The place has an entry through the sand but prepare a post-beach suit: entry in swimsuits is prohibited. Elected by Veja Comer & Beber 2019 for having one of the best drink lists in Salvador, the simplicity of the typical design of a summer house and the sophisticated service are the composition of a perfect beach day. A good choice is the Calamares dish (crispy squid rings and lemon). Among the award-winning drinks, the highlights go to Negroni Spritz (campari, sparkling wine, 1757 ash, bitters and gin) and Matchá (pisco, sugar syrup, tangerine or lemon juice, egg white and angostura).
Blue Praia Bar
Contact: (71) 3034-3054. For reservations: (71) 99675-8734
Accessibility: the two entrances (by the beach or by the street) have stairs and the environments are leveled.
Casa do Rio Vermelho
Casa do Rio Vermelho, the last residence of the writer Jorge Amado and Zélia Gattai, is a very rich memorial about the life and work of this admirable couple. The house was a meeting place for artists, intellectuals and political activists. just to name a few, Glauber Rocha, Pablo Neruda, Tom Jobim, Dorival Caymmi, Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir passed by.
The spaces maintain the original characteristics of the property and each room has projections with different subjects about the lives of the artists. There are more than 30 hours of videos and projections. It is impossible to know the entire history of the property and the writers in just one visit. The house is already a tourist reference, fulfilling the writer’s wishes for it to become a living and active center. Live Long!
Memorial A Casa do Rio Vermelho
Contact: (71) 3333-1919
Rua Alagoinhas, 33 – Rio Vermelho, Salvador – BA 41940-620
Colaboraê – Multipurpose Collaborative Cultural Space
The purpose of Colaboraê is to bring together diverse cultural expressions in one place, bringing new opportunities for those who live and consume art. There, there are studios and an entire structure for holding events. The singer, songwriter, presenter and entrepreneur Ju Moraes (@jumoraesoficial) is one of the residents and supporters of the space.
Multipurpose Collaborative Cultural Space (events, studio and platform)
Rua Borges dos Reis, 81, Rio Vermelho
Restaurante Dona Mariquita
This restaurant is a gastronomic immersion in the cuisine heritage of Bahia. The Dona Mariquita restaurant is located in a quiet street in the Rio Vermelho neighborhood and manages to represent so many ‘Bahias’ with a very rich cuisine, which goes far beyond palm oil and carries not only African but also Muslim and country heritage. At Dona Mariquita, the dishes are made as they were created, rescuing traditional recipes for the preservation of cultural heritage.
Colorful and flavorful dishes, impeccable decor, inspired by the Candomblé terreiros, and pleasant lighting make you want to stay there for hours, savoring each mouthful. Accept the suggestions of the day or let your creativity choose your meal. Take the opportunity to take the tamarind caipiroska. Elsewhere it’s hard to find!
The restaurant brings to the table, in large portions for two, preparations such as maniçoba (cassava leaf stew); xinxim (a stew that, at home, as in the past, brings egussi, a name given to roasted pumpkin or watermelon seeds); collected from jackfruit hearts of palm; miniabará; efó (saio de taioba leaf). There is also the milk pudding with aridan bean, very well known in Candomblé.
Heritage Kitchen of Bahia
Phone: (71) 3334 6947
Rua do Meio, 178 – Rio Vermelho, Salvador – BA 41490-426
Acarajé da Regina
Fradinho bean dumpling prepared by hand, in which the beans are ground, seasoned and then fried in boiling palm oil. Then comes the art and energy of the Bahian, it carries a dose of joy and ancestry and it becomes the beloved and famous acarajé. As a filling, you can have chilli, vatapá, caruru, dried shrimp and salad. In addition to food and sustenance for several families, it has an important symbolic character.
With a fixed stall in the neighborhood for over 30 years and another one in Graça, Regina dos Santos Conceição, in addition to acarajé, is known for one of the best abarás in the city. On her food board, candy fans also find white coconut cocada, burnt coconut and peanut cocada, as well as student dumplings.
Acarajé da Regina
Largo de Santana, no number, Rio Vermelho
Plural and diverse
San Boate, today located in the Rio Vermelho Pyramid, is the best known LGBTQIA + nightclub in Salvador and tends to please all types of public. With five spaces – an outside bar, a lounge, two dance floors and a box. One of the highlights of the house is the lighting project, signed by Lonardi Dona, from LOD System.
There, you can meet Gotham Waldorf, who worked as a performer for the makeup artist, stylist and fashion producer Ulisses Neves (ulissesns_). Among other projects, Gotham is a producer and one of the residents of the Bahian party called Shantay (@ shantay.brasil), with successful editions at San Boate.
With each edition, Shantay honors great names in pop music with performances and versions of video clips. The event has been suspended because of the Covid-19 pandemic, but the production by Gotham Waldorf (@gothamwaldorf) is in full swing.
It is also worth visiting the works of the drag queens Spadina Banks (spadinabanks), Mary Jane Beck (@beckmaryjane), Aimée Lumière (@aimeelumiere), Malayka SN (@malaykasn) and DDD (@decadancediva)
Instagram: @sanboate / @sanbarrv
Location: Rua Conselheiro Pedro Luiz, 488 – Rio Vermelho
Contact: (71) 3334-1625
The Scenery of soteropolitana bohemia
This part of the city really deserves the title of a bohemian neighborhood. The diversity of bars and restaurants makes nightlife boil here. An example of this, is Bombar, that works with an urban and diverse concept. It has a dance floor in the upper area and tables on the bottom floor. In the drink list, our tip is the gin with cashew, mint and tonic water. To eat, order the Potato Palosa (potatoes, cheddar and bacon).
For those who like DJs, live music and drinks at the bar, we suggest the Gin Bar. With its mix of bars and clubs, it offers exclusive drinks for those who want to enjoy the night in Salvador. On its social network page, it is also possible to know the events and services agenda.
Rua Conselheiro Pedro Luiz, 301-367 – Rio Vermelho, Salvador – BA – 40140-770
Reservations by phone: 55 71 98321-9646
R. Canavieiras, 24 – Rio Vermelho, Salvador – BA, 41940-690
El Pancho Taqueria and Pasta em Casa
On the same street, the restaurants El Pancho Taqueria and Pasta em Casa provide a trip around the world. It is worth getting to know the gastronomy of each one.
El Pancho Taqueria offers a gastronomic, visual and sensorial plunge into Mexican culture to the Soterapolitano public. The bright colors of the huge 1892 mansion, at Rua Almerinda Dutra, in the Rio Vermelho neighborhood, are the first invitation to enter the place. A sure tip is to order the delicious (and therefore very popular) Alambre, a portion of sautéed meat with a mix of au gratin cheeses, sautéed vegetables and sauces, accompanied by baskets of tortillas. Tortilla, in fact, is one of the delicacies of El Pancho that makes reference to the cuisine of the indigenous peoples of Mexico.
Right in front of you is one of the best Italian food hotspots in the city. Pasta em Casa is a contemporary restaurant for those who want comfort and tasty food. It all started in 2012, with an Italian rotisserie where people could buy products made there, handmade, ready to be taken home to the freezer. Today, they have expanded to a Grocery Store, Padoca, Restaurant and Forneria. They have already been elected as the best Italian in the 2018/2019 edition of the VEJA Comer & Beber Salvador award, which elects the best tables in the city, and you can always expect other news.
Creativity and love for what they do is not lacking. Find out all about Pasta em Casa at this link.
El Pancho Taqueria
Contact: (71) 98316-7841
Rua Professora Almerinda Dultra, 3 – Rio Vermelho, Salvador – BA, 41950-090
Pasta em casa
Contact: (71) 99904-2244
Rua Professora Almerinda Dultra, 67 – Rio Vermelho, Salvador – BA, 41950-090
With the Covid-19 pandemic, the Bahian capital has been adapting to this new normal. During the tours, visitors should pay attention to the use of the mask, 70º alcohol gel and keeping a safe distance from other people.
Call ahead for visiting and find out about the security protocols to avoid contamination.
This is the Plan for Resumption of Activities in Salvador. Understand all the working protocols in this link.
Salvador por Soteropolitanos. Rio Vermelho.