Strolling in Santo Antônio Além do Carmo: varied options to discover on foot

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ABOCA Centro de Artes. Santo Antônio Além do Carmo Foto: Amanda Oliveira.

20 places to have fun: bars, restaurants, coffee shops, tobacconists, museums and galleries

Santo Antônio Além do Carmo is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Salvador and is located in the historic center of the city, which is listed by the National Institute of Artistic and Historical Heritage (Iphan). Santo Antônio, which has always been an eminently residential neighborhood, has gained in recent years a movement worthy of a bohemian neighborhood. The old mansions with a splendid view of the All Saints Bay, which were once the homes of grandparents and great-grandparents, are now commercial establishments. There, it is possible to enjoy the typical cuisine and dishes that are part of the daily life of Bahians, in addition to enjoying the cultural and artistic establishments that are in the region.

Visit Salvador da Bahia has gathered here a list of 20 establishments in a complete itinerary on what to do in Santo Antônio Além do Carmo. The options are varied: bars, restaurants, cafeterias, tobacconists, museums and galleries.

1. Zumví Afro Photographic Archive

Located on Ladeira do Carmo, Zumví is an archive of photographs committed to the affirmative image of black people. The place has been recording, for about 30 years, the manifestations of the black movement and the daily life of Afro-descendants in various themes and popular contexts. The aim is to democratize access to the collection for researchers and the general population interested in photography and the path of black photographers.

Establishment: Zumví Afro Photographic Archive
Address: Ladeira do Carmo, 28 – Santo Antônio
Opening hours: Tuesday to Saturday, from 10 am to 7 pm / Sunday, from 2 pm to 7 pm
Instagram: @zumviarquivofotografico
Shopping website:

2. Casa La Frida

Casa La Frida is a bicycle shop that defines itself as a black space. Located on Rua Direta de Santo Antônio, the place is an organic and empowering social entrepreneurship, created by black women and made by black women, with the idea of ​​encouraging the use of the bike as a sustainable and economical mode of transport. It is also a space for socializing and exchanging ideas, an artistic residency, which has a cafeteria in a cozy kitchen, with bike rental, bike tour around the city, bike lessons, courses aimed at black women, conversation circles/workshops, events and shows. Not forgetting the bike repair shop, which does maintenance and customization to keep the bike always in a good shape, in addition to the sale of bikes and accessories.

Establishment: Casa La Frida
Address: Rua Direita de Santo Antônio, 360 – Santo Antônio Além do Carmo
Opening hours: Monday to Friday, 9 am to 7 pm / Saturday, 9 am to 3 pm
Instagram: @casalafridasalvador
Phone: (71) 99283-0372

3. Head Shop and Tobacconist

Since 2016, the tobacconist has taken the head shop concept to the Bahian capital and today occupies a prominent place in the universe of Brazilian cannabis culture. For those who are into the subject, the place has herb grinders, bongs, silks, a multitude of tobacconist items such as cigars, pipes and hookahs. But it also has many self-made creative and wellness items such as candles, teas, toys, stationery, cannabis bookstore and creative decor.

Establishment: Head Shop and Tobacconist
Address: Rua Aurino Sales, 30 – Centro, Santo Antônio Além do Carmo
Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, from 10 am to 1 pm and from 2:30 pm to 6 pm
Instagram: @issoeumcachimbo
Phone: (75) 99851-3146

4. Museum of the Sea – Aleixo Belov

Located in a three-story yellow mansion, in Largo do Santo Antônio Além do Carmo, opened in 2021, the Museu do Mar Aleixo Belov keeps relics acquired by the sailor Aleixo Belov during his five trips around the world, three of them alone, on the sailboat “Tres Marias”. This vessel, which was built by the captain himself in 1976, is the central pillar of the museum.

Establishment: Aleixo Belov Sea Museum
Instagram: @museudomar.aleixobelov
Location: Largo do Santo Antônio Além do Carmo, 3, in the Historic Center of Salvador
Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 10 am to 6 pm, last entry at 5 pm
Price: R$ 20 full rate and R$ 10 half (students, teachers from public institutions and people over 60 pay half). Children up to 5 years old do not pay.
Phone: (71) 3218-5985

5. Yolo Coffee Bar

Attached to the Museum of the Sea, Yolo Coffee Bar has a menu with snacks to share and customers can make their own starters. The place has hot and cold drinks, as well as naturally fermented breads, made in-house. The bar, which has a menu with classic drinks, was placed in the lounge and all customers can see the bartender working.

The space has a modern design and overlooks the famous sailboat Três Marias, owned by the navigator Aleixo Belov, which is a boat that has traveled no less than three times around the world. The establishment is run by chef Raphael Sepúlveda, who has created a special and different menu. The name of the place, Yolo, is an acronym for “you only live once”.

Establishment: Yolo Coffee Bar
Opening hours: Tuesday and Wednesday, from 4 pm to 8 pm / Thursday and Saturday, from 11am to 10 pm / Sunday, from 10 am to 8 pm
Address: attached to the Museum of the Sea – Largo de Santo Antônio Além do Carmo, nº 3
Instagram: yolo.coffeebar

6. Agá – arts | engravings | related

Agá Studio was created in January 2017 and opened its doors in a colorful house in Santo Antônio Além do Carmo in 2022, a neighborhood that has been one of the main stages of cultural expression in Salvador. The space is also a little shop. The gallery/studio/store has a project dedicated exclusively to authorial creations, gathering and housing works by independent visual artists, mostly from Bahia. There, you will find works, paintings, prints, postcards, magnets, stickers, t-shirts, photography, mugs and the like.

The festivals, traditions and religiosity of the Northeast are present in everything that is part of Agá. Exhibitions take place every three months, with an average of 10 different exhibitors in each edition. The place also has a website, where some pieces are sold.

Establishment: Agá Artes
Address: Rua Direita de Santo Antônio Além do Carmo, 404
Opening hours: Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, from 4 pm to 8 pm
Instagram: @estudioaga

7. Oliveiras Bar

One of the most famous bars in Carmo, Oliveiras is an intimate bar with funky artwork on the walls, ping pong, snacks and live music some days of the week. There, you can find “gengibrinho”, a drink that is the hallmark of traditional bars in Santo Antônio Além do Carmo. The drink is a mixture of ginger root, cachaça, lemon and sugar. There are also bottled beers like Colorado, Eisenbahn and Heineken.

Establishment: Oliveiras Bar
Address: R. Direita de Santo Antônio, 110 – Santo Antônio Além do Carmo
Instagram: @oliveiras110
Opening hours: Thursday and Friday, from 6 pm to midnight / Saturday, from 6 pm to 11 pm
Phone: (71) 99190-8821

8. A.B.O.C.A. arts center

Upon entering the old mansion with its exposed brick facade and graffiti on the door, you will find one of the most picturesque and interesting places in the city. There is a lively crowd, who line up at the door to get in right away, after all, the night is a melting pot of emotions. The atmosphere is cozy and the house was built from the rubble 6 years ago by photographer and plastic artist Vinícius Lima and by Liza Araújo, executive director of the house. Some shows happen in the place, and names such as Mariene de Castro, Caetano Veloso, Mateus Aleluia and Armandinho Macêdo have passed through its stage. The establishment also sells tasty pizzas and has a delivery service.

Establishment: ABOCA Arts Center
Address: Marchantes Street, 12 – Santo Antônio Além do Carmo
Opening hours: Wednesday to Sunday, from 6 pm to midnight
Instagram: @abocacentrodeartes
Phone: (71) 99334-8893

9. Café e Cana

Café e Cana is the ideal place for those who like to meet friends in a relaxed atmosphere, with good drinks, snacks that can only be found in good bars and tasty dishes if you are really hungry. The place has cold beer and assorted cocktails.

Establishment: Café e Cana
Address: Carmo Street, 25 – Santo Antônio Além do Carmo
Opening hours: Monday, Wednesday and Thursday, from 4 pm to 11 pm / Friday and Saturday, from noon to midnight / Sunday from noon to 11 pm
Instagram: @cafeecana
Phone: 71 99125-3958

10. Casa Boqueirão

Casa Boqueirão is a design and art space with a varied mix of products, visual arts, accessories, fashion, and framing and fine art printing services. Managed by visual artist Alfredo Gama and architect Tânia Póvoa, it is located on Rua Direita do Santo Antônio, next to the Ordem Terceira de Nossa Senhora da Conceição do Boqueirão Church, in the Historic Center. This house/shop/gallery is a collaborative space, divided to sell a variety of products and for a good chat in memorable meetings.

There, you can find prints, shirts, backpacks, sculptures, paintings, handcrafted accessories such as glasses and jewelry, as well as carefully chosen decorative pieces. The store is cozy and, in addition to shopping, you can have some coffee and cake, pie or snacks with a wonderful view of the All Saints Bay.

Establishment: Casa Boqueirão
Address: Rua Direita de Santo Antônio, 56
Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday, from 2 pm to 8 pm
Instagram: @casaboqueirao
Phone: 71 999832484

11. Rei do Mosaico

Rei do Mosaico is a space that promises to offer art at a fair price. There, you will find several personalized mosaics, with the elaboration of decorative panels for rooms, facades and walls.

Establishment: Rei do Mosaico, by Vanderlei Oliveira
Address: Rua Direita do Santo Antônio Além do Carmo, 153 – Santo Antônio Além do Carmo
Opening hours: Thursday to Saturday, from 4 pm to 9 pm
Instagram: @reidomosaico
Phone: (71) 98790-1280

12. FERA Restaurante e Petiscaria

The place has regional food, snacks, various drinks and cold beer. There, the most famous are the burgers. The place is in a yellow house and the decoration of the space is super cozy.

Establishment: FERA Restaurante e Petiscaria
Address: Rua Direita de Santo Antônio, 390, Santo Antônio Além do Carmo, Salvador
Opening hours: Wednesday from 4pm to 9pm / Thursday from 4pm to 10pm / Friday and Saturday from 12pm to 11pm / Sunday from 12pm to 9pm
Instagram: @ferapetiscariaebar
Phone: (71) 99976-4446

13. Casa de Farinha Restaurant

The Casa de Farinha Restaurant offers a good gastronomic experience in a unique space, full of culture, history and ancestry. The proposal of the place is for customers to immerse themselves inside the restaurant, enter, stay, chat, enjoy the music and the place. The environment unites the rustic with the contemporary, history with technology, the sacred with the profane. Like a good Bahian, Casa de Farinha is also Carnival. The dishes are diverse, but the tip is to choose the shrimp baião de dois with grilled octopus, toasted okra and gherkin pickles or the hump steak with a thousand leaves of cassava, coriander pesto and bottled butter aioli.

Establishment: Casa de Farinha Restaurant
Address: Rua Direita de Santo Antônio, 97 – Santo Antônio Além do Carmo
Opening hours: Sunday from 12pm to 4pm / Thursday from 7pm to midnight / Friday and Saturday from 12pm to midnight
Instagram: @casadefarinhaof
Phone: (71) 99962-5899

14. Ateliê Dani Cunha

For those who still don’t know, Ateliê Dani Cunha, located on Rua do Carmo, claims to have the most beautiful sunset in the city, accompanied by good food and good drinks. The purpose of the place is to provide the best experience for anyone visiting Santo Antônio. In addition to drinks, the menu has snacks, sweets and, of course, coffees.

Establishment: Ateliê Dani Cunha
Address: Rua do Carmo, 70 – Santo Antônio Além do Carmo
Opening hours: Wednesday to Sunday, at 4:30 pm
Instagram: @ateliedanicunha_

15. Rango Vegan

Rango Vegan is a 100% vegetarian restaurant. Born in 2006, formed by women who aimed, through cooperative work, to generate income linked to the vegan philosophy. The menu is varied and the price is super inviting, with a fixed price that includes salad, main course and a glass of juice. For some, veganism is a movement, for others, a philosophy. With that in mind, workshops are also offered for those who want to learn how to cook.

Establishment: Rango Vegan
Address: Passo Street, 62 – Santo Antônio
Opening hours: Sunday and Monday, from 12 pm to 3 pm / Tuesday to Friday, from 12 pm to 8 pm / Saturday, from 12 pm to 11 pm.
Instagram: @rangovegan.ssa
Phone: (71) 3488-2756 or (71) 9 8601 9673

16. Almazen Store

At Almazen you will find arts, gifts, tobacconist items and a lot of variety. There, you can find food, clothing, essential oils, soaps, decorative items and much more, all with a Bahian touch.
Establishment: Almazen Store
Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday, from 2 pm to 8 pm
Address: Carmo Street, 56 – Santo Antônio Além do Carmo, Salvador – BA
Phone: (71) 98100-5953

17. Poró Restaurant & Bar

For those who like something more sophisticated or are looking for a place for a date with bae, Poró Restaurante & Bar is perfect. With a wonderful view of the All Saints Bay, the establishment has a super spacious balcony and a diversified drinks menu, as well as starters and main courses.

One of the best-ordered and most coveted dishes on the menu is blue-rare tuna with avocado puree, quinoa tabbouleh and parmesan tile. Among the other options, the tip is the yam gnocchi with shredded pork in sweet and sour cachaça sauce, which is defined by the restaurant itself as a passionate experience. In addition to the food, the space also has a very special decoration. The balcony, from where you can enjoy the sunset in the late afternoon, has colorful hanging umbrellas, which are above the tables so that the customer can enjoy the shade at mealtime.

Establishment: Poró Restaurant & Bar
Location: R. Direita de Santo Antônio, 445 – Santo Antônio Além do Carmo
Opening hours: Tuesday and Wednesday, from 12 pm to 9 pm / Thursday, Friday and Saturday, from 12 pm to 11 pm / Sunday, from 12 pm to 9 pm
Instagram: @pororestaurantebar
Phone: (71) 99618-1704

18. Raiz Restaurant

Regional food and seafood in the best neighborhood in Salvador. This is the proposal of Raiz Restaurant. The environment is calm and has a beautiful view of the sunset over the All Saints Bay. The menu has fish for all tastes and occasions, from “pirarucu”, considered the king of the Amazon waters, to “tucunaré” or “tambaqui” with succulent ribs. Another widely used ingredient is jambu, a native foliage that causes an intriguing numbness in the mouth. Amazonian fruits are special and unique.

The starter tip is the “cumbuca do mar”, made with grilled seafood (squid, shrimp, octopus and salmon), accompanied by soy sauce, herb oil and mango chutney, for R$58, and the shrimp in cream, with House-made bread toast bisque, for R$37. Main courses range from R$43 to R$149.

Opening hours: Friday – 4pm to 10pm. Saturday – 12pm to 10pm. Sunday – 12pm to 10pm
Instagram: @raiz_restaurante_
Address: Carmo Street, 6, Santo Antônio Além do Carmo, Salvador – BA
Phone: (71) 98724-8555

19. Antique Bistrô

The Antique Bistrô is an excellent tour for those who want to mix gastronomy and history. The restaurant opened on February 3, 2021 and the purpose of the place is to provide a different experience from other bars and restaurants in the city. The Antique has a balcony overlooking the sea and a deck, which is like a large backyard, also overlooking the All Saints Bay. The place has environments with historic walls. It is estimated that they are more than 200 years old, being a very rustic environment, with tatami mats and low tables, to sit on the floor and with no shoes.

The food and drinks of the house are diverse. In addition to snacks and individual dishes, Antique also offers dishes to share, at a great cost benefit, which serve up to three people. The house’s differentials are the smoked rib balls, six units for R$ 36.90, and the tapioca dice, for R$ 26.90.

Address: Carmo Street, 6, Santo Antônio
Phone: (71) 99912-6082
Opening hours: Wednesday and Thursday: 3 pm to 9 pm; Friday and Saturday: 1pm to 9pm
Sunday: 1 pm to 7 pm.
Instagram: @antiquebistro_

20. Bistrô das Artes by Karine Poggio

In the space, an art gallery and a kitchen are under the command of Karine Poggio, known for the healthy food she offered at her now defunct restaurant Coentro, in Barra. The Bistro is open from Wednesday to Sunday, with brunch, lunch and dinner options, from 10 am to 9 pm. It is a colonial mansion in front of the Carmo church, in the Historic Center of Salvador, full of works of art, paintings by artists and beautiful photographs. Inside – where everything on display is for sale – an open kitchen produces refined dishes.

The starters at the Bistrô range from R$28 to R$59. Main courses range from R$64 to R$134, with options of jerked filet mignon with milk pirão, and lobster with palm hearts spaghetti and moqueca sauce. The restaurant also offers desserts, between R$26 and R$28, with a variety of options, such as mango ice cream with meringue, coconut and mango pickles; and tapioca pudding with tangerine syrup and Parmesan tuile.

Establishment: Bistrô das Artes
Address: Carmo Street, nº 8, Santo Antônio
Instagram: @bistrodasartescarmo
Wednesday to Sunday, from 12 pm to 9 pm
Phone: 71 98344 4478